Halal wagyu yakiniku done properly, in Subang—Asumo brings a dining experience usually reserved for Mont Kiara and KLCC to somewhere the rest of the Klang Valley can actually reach.

A sense of calm washes over you as you are escorted to a private dining cabin, away from the chaos of the street below. Asumo strays away from its sister restaurants, choosing to serve a different community altogether but staying true to its roots.

Where Asumo stands out among the growing population of yakiniku spots in Subang, is in its premium menu offerings and beautifully designed private dining spaces.

The menu is similar to that of Kyomo’s—which has now expanded into a three-lot affair in its hometown of Desa Sri Hartamas—offering premium cuts of hala Japanese wagyu, an extensive a la carte menu, and bubbly highballs in SS15 Subang Jaya.

This is my third visit, and will certainly not be my last.

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à la carte

First and foremost, the Wagyu Tendon Stew (RM28) is an absolute must-order. It arrives at the table fresh off the flame, and the simmering bubbles barely hide the glorious goodness within. Hearty, unctuous, soul-warming. Even if you’re not here to splurge on yakiniku, this stew and a bowl of steamed rice will have you singing praises.

Whether as an appetiser to whet your palate, or as funky crunchy accompaniments to the rich grilled meats, the 5 Kinds Assorted Namul (RM20) is a wise order. My favourites were the spinach and burdock root, seasoned bean sprouts, and shiitake mushrooms.

The Kale Salad (RM25) is a staple among Asumo and its sister restaurants, each with a slightly unique twist. The one here is dressed lightly, and then heavily snowed on by grated cheese. My favourite element in the salad is the bright, citrusy heat of pink peppercorns that jolt your senses with surprise.

Sushi

Before the grill is fired, it’s worth exploring the more unexpected corners of the menu (read: sushi at a yakiniku joint).

Our standouts were definitely the Raw or Seared Wagyu Sushi, and the longer Wagyu Sirloin and Wagyu Sirloin with Uni (RM12–28) pieces were fabulous too.

The Grilled Freshwater Eel, Salmon and Seared Salmon with Cod Roe sushis (RM6–8) were not as fantastic as its beef counterparts. The cuts here were on the leaner and stickier side. What is distinctly Asumo about the sushi, is that the shari (rice) is seasoned with red Akazu vinegar, lending a rounder tang compared to ordinary sushi rice.

For a more luxurious prelude to the main course, we opted for the Sea Urchin on Seared Sirloin (RM35 per spoon) that came adorned with beads of caviar and a sweet-savoury sauce. The bite dissolves on the tongue—a fleeting moment of bliss. Would I order this again? I think I’d spend the cash on another bowl of tendon stew.

Charcoal Grill

Moving on to the main event, the Premium Wagyu Omakase (RM570, 600g) selection or as I like to call it, the stairway to heaven. Opting for the 600g and above menus, you get to experience 10 different cuts of halal Japanese wagyu beef.

Each of the cuts grills and tastes different from the rest, some are leaner and more toothsome, others melt away as you eat. There were honestly so many different cuts grilled and eaten in succession that I lost track of which is which. But I always have a soft spot for the prized Zabuton (chuck flap) piece that is extra buttery, and only needs a light dab of salt to send me straight up—befitting of its placement at the very top.

New to the menu, at least to me during this visit, is the Fukuoka-style Omakase Five-Flavour Chicken Yakiniku (RM55), which is honestly a steal for the price. Different cuts of chicken marinated in either a spicy, garlicky, herbaceous or just salted for simplicity. I did not expect this to be as good as it is, but friends who don’t take beef will love this option. Bear in mind that the chicken will need more cooktime than the Wagyu slices.

Because of the private dining room setting, the wait staff do not hover—a source of anxiety for many. The staff at Asumo are also very proactive and ready to spring into action when called via the service button on the table. When the meat starts to stick to the grill, or the charcoal embers start fizzling out, they are promptly swapped for a fresh set upon request.

Carb Comforts

After a rich parade of meats, a change of pace comes in the form of chilled noodles and fragrant rice.

An underrated gem in this busy menu was the Lemon Cold Noodle (RM18). A light, refreshing dashi broth punctuated with the citrusy fragrance of lemon. So good that Pearl asked for a second bowl for herself.

My choice of carb exists in the realm of alium-on-alium-on-alium, and by that I mean the Garlic Rice (RM21) with more crunchy garlic and bright scallion greens. The best part of this is the stone bowl that produces the star of the show: the okoge (scorched rice).

Words cannot fully describe the feeling of a piping hot spoonful of fragrant rice almost burning my tongue, but in a way I will always welcome.

Sweet Treats

The grills are cleared, the embers fade, and the meal finds its final notes in two modest but memorable desserts

I’ve had the Sweet Potato Spring Roll with Ice Cream (RM13) before and I am happy to report it is an excellent as ever. A play on textures and temperatures—crispy, creamy, hot, and cold—plus high quality Japanese sweet potatoes makes for a winner.

Pudding (RM13) is described on the menu as “steamed at 89ºC for 19 minutes” and I don’t know how precise this process has to be but it certainly works. Essentially a creme brulee, this simple cup felt right as the concluding factor to our meal.

Put Asumo On Your List

Overall, Asumo is a very compelling recommendation for Japanese dining away from the usual sushi and sashimi affair, especially in Subang. The restaurant also offers excellent value-for-money lunch sets on weekdays which I have tried and would return for.

Although the Japanese wagyu is the center of attention. The a la carte menu is not to be underestimated either. On your next visit, get the wagyu tendon stew, namul assortment, garlic fried rice, and either dessert option for a simple meal for two. Splurge a little with the uni on sirloin spoons, if you’re feeling indulgent.

Thank you to the Asumo team and Chloe for hosting us with this wonderful dining experience—it’s one to watch, for sure.

Asumo
49 & 51 Jalan SS 15/5a
SS15, 47500 Subang Jaya (Maps)

Open daily:
11.30AM–3PM, 5–11PM

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