There is something quietly magnetic about Bocado. Tucked inconspicuously at a corner of ECM Libra in Damansara Heights, it is the kind of place that celebrates Spain’s spirited dining culture without feeling like a translation.

Part of the Cinnamon Group, Bocado is helmed by Chef Victor Santos, a Galician native whose journey from the landscapes of Lugo, to the glittering coasts of Marbella and Ibiza has shaped the way he cooks. He began his culinary journey at twelve, fascinated by the simple joy or watching people happy over food, and it is a sentiment he carries with him today. Most notably, he has grown a knack for adapting his native flavours with any country’s taste profiles and preferences, making it no wonder Bocado is one of the most popular Spanish tapas bars in KL.

A sunny Sunday saw us dining at Bocado for lunch. Reservations are encouraged as the restaurant is rather popular, and indeed the atmosphere was quite lively just past noon.

Bocado Restaurant

Bocado spans two storeys, with the main dining atrium overlooked by a balcony and a private dining room. The high ceiling gives the space more breathing room than its footprint suggests. Blues are the predominant colour, appearing in various shades from cerulean to cobalt in tiles, furniture, and tableware—a palette that is both cool and coastal.

To the right of the entrance is a tall, tiled wall with the restaurant’s name inscribed in gold anchors the room, while a large pass at the back allows guests a glimpse into the kitchen’s choreographed rhythm. Our group of five was seated in a curved booth off to the side by the window where natural light filtered through—something that food photographers, amateur or otherwise, wistfully hope for.

Bocado KL Spaces

As the menus settled and drinks found their way to the table, the meal began in true Spanish fashion with tapas meant to share, arriving one after another in quick, eager succession.

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Tapas

Croquetas de Setas

Our first taste of Bocado came in the form of Croquetas de Setas (RM42), which arrived within minutes of ordering. The plating was almost avant garde, and the shells broke with a soft snap to reveal a silken béchamel laced with finely diced mushrooms, rich and savoury with just enough earthiness to anchor the flavour. It was the kind of start that quietly promised good things to come. The truffle mayonnaise on the side was fantastic and I wish there was more of it.

Gambas Al Ajillo

Arriving at the table still hissing in its cast iron skillet, Gambas al Ajillo (RM52) is a staple that tests a Spanish kitchen’s confidence. Shell-on tiger prawns simmered in garlic and chili-infused olive oil is a simple dish to prepare, but one that is difficult to perfect. I tore a piece of the crust bread through the molten, almost buttery oil, catching a sliver of garlic and the fiery slick of prawn essence. The prawns themselves were supple and sweet, the way only olive oil can preserve and highlight.

Calamares (left); Ensaladilla (Right)

Rounding out the tapas, we had the Calamares and Ensaladilla (both RM42). The fried calamari was served piping hot, and admittedly, quite photogenic. The batter was light and crisp, and the squid cooked just right. On the other hand, the little mound of potato salad folded with tuna and olive oil was humble and comforting. It wasn’t the kind of dish that steals attention, but I liked it all the same for its easy familiarity. And really, you can’t really go wrong with fried squid and potato salad!

Paella & Josper Grill

What would a Spanish table be without a paella at the centre? From the trio of choices, the Arroz Negro (RM160) stood out. Its grains are seasoned and coloured with the dark gloss of squid ink, almost like wet obsidian. Morsels of tender grilled octopus and dollops of aioli dotted the pan like the reflection of stars on the midnight sea. The bomba rice’s texture was exact—al dente by a breath—allowing the rice to absorb the briny depth without losing its bite. An excellent paella that I found myself scraping the pan for more of.

Chicken often gets a bad reputation at restaurants for being the “safe” or “budget” option of the carnivore’s roster, but I find that when done well, the humble bird can be transformed into something nothing short of revelatory. Take the one I had at AIR CCCC in Singapore.

Bocado’s Pollo Asado (RM80) sees a whole spring chicken grilled over live coals until the skin took on a burnished lacquer while the interior remained juicy, carrying a faint smokiness that only charcoal imbues. I enjoyed the roasted potatoes on the side, and the green salad cuts through the smoke with freshness.

Chuletas de Cordero (RM160) was presented as two thick-cut lamb rack chops cooked to our requested doneness of medium-rare on a swirl of mashed potatoes. The meat was undeniably succulent, though its pronounced gaminess definitely divided our palates—had I known, I might have opted for a slightly more cooked finish. While generous for one, the portion leans more indulgent than sharable.

Dessert

Churros (RM38) make for a fittingly classic end to our Spanish lunch. Few realise that these fritters vary widely—from thin and crisp to thick and doughy—depending on region and recipe. Bocado’s version leaned toward the former: long, slender strands with a delicate crunch and a texture so light it bordered on air. However, the flavour of the frying oil came through too strongly, missing the balance I’ve come to appreciate in others, particular the ones I had at Fuego, which are still my benchmark. The hot chocolate sauce was pleasant to dip the churros in, but ultimately unremarkable and the lone berry garnishes felt like an afterthought.

Drinks

Enjoying tapas while sipping on a White Peach Cava Sangria (RM60) is encapsulates the efferverscent experience Bocado strives for. A bubbly golden elixir that is sweet enough to hide its strength layered with peach flavour—an easy sip. On the other hand, a White Sangria (RM45) is drier but no less enjoyable.

Those looking for zero-proof options will appreciate an interesting mocktail programme led by the La Pasión Tropical (RM18)—laced with passionfruit, pineapple, coconut, calamansi and pandan—or a selection of freshly squeezed fruit juices. I can already hear the Rambutan Hibiscus Dream and Sunset Guava Thyme calling my name for my next visit.

End Notes

By the end of lunch, we left genuinely impressed with the performance of Bocado’s kitchen. I couldn’t help but think how easy it is to recommend this restaurant to someone looking for Spanish fare in Kuala Lumpur. The prices are on the higher side, but very fair for the quality and care behind each plate, and the portions were honest. Service was also attentive and accommodating. If you go, order the gambas, the croquetas, and the paella; they capture the soul of what Bocado does best. Next time, I’ll be back for the Josper-grilled steaks; if the lamb was any indication, it is definitely bound be an enjoyable experience.

Bocado
Ground Floor, Bangunan ECM Libra,
8 Jalan Damansara Endah,
Bukit Damansara
50490 Kuala Lumpur (Maps)

Operation Hours
Lunch: 12–3PM
Dinner: 6–10.30PM
Open daily

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