With a sprawling lawn on one side and a lush thicket on the other, sipping on botanical cocktails and noshing on fried chicken bites never felt more serene. Sinking into the canvas recliners on a wooden patio and looking out to the SUN(SET) over Dempsey Hill, AIR CCCC is where I would like to be every day for the rest of my life.

The offspring of renowned chefs Matthew Orlando and Will Goldfarb, and entrepreneur Ronald Akili, AIR is a “Circular Campus and Cooking Club” occupying over 4,000 sqm of space where the former CSC Dempsey Clubhouse used to be.

Cleverly and intentionally designed by the award-winning OMA, AIR retains the bones of the old clubhouse; breathing in new life through its ribbon windows and its modern philosophy.

If the cuisine at AIR can be described in one word, it would be “transformative”. The culinary team lead by Chef Matt Orlando—from the famed Amass in Copenhagen—takes local ingredients and transforms them with an increasingly sought-after ingredient: time.

There has been a marked shift in focus towards fermentation and more primitive methods of food preparation—Noma in Copenhagen can take credit for putting time on the global ingredient list.

The menu at AIR is designed to champion circularity and uses what’s available, what’s ripe in the garden, what’s preserved in the lab, and what’s been thoughtfully sourced from trusted local growers.

SUN(SET) on the Patio

I had the most wonderful opportunity to enjoy AIR’s new SUN(SET) programme before sojourning to The Restaurant that overlooks the lawn.

Every weekend, AIR’s Triangular Bar is open for SUN(SET) snacks and sips. Exclusive cocktails and a selection of bar bites such as the crispy AIR Fries, hot honey-glazed fried chicken and soy-sesame-seaweed tossed nuts kick off your pre-dinner mingle with funky flair.

AIR Fries get a subtle funk from slow-fermented potatoes, adding a layer of complexity to the otherwise humble tuber. The green lime skin emulsion adds a nice acidic touch.

My favourite of the three was undoubtedly the fried chicken, a touch of fruity heat from Andaliman peppers and the sticky sweetness from honey that had me suckling on my fingers after each piece.

Sadly, I was not fond of the mixed nut bowl.

Another Drink (or two) at Dinner

When it comes to my choice in cocktails, I gravitate towards the tropical, fruity vibe. Skimming through the drinks menu, I was instantly drawn into the Jamu Colada. The mere thought of coconut, yuzu and pineapple together already claimed my stamp of approval from the text.

I love coffee—but I’m by no means a purist. Lately, I’ve grown quite fond of an espresso martini at dessert (more on that later). Therefore, the Rumpresso Martini was a no-brainer choice to end my meal.

I had previously sampled Nusantara Cold Brew coffee liqueur during last year’s FHA expo and remembered kicking myself at how good it was, and kicking myself even harder knowing that it is not available in Malaysia.

The Chef’s Choice

The menu is designed to champion circularity and uses what’s available, what’s ripe, what’s preserved in the lab, and what’s been thoughtfully sourced from trusted local growers.

And with a menu as diverse and dynamic as AIR’s, decision fatigue will be tangible, especially when it can be completely different one every time you visit.

Fortunately, I was spared the brainwork and was offered the Chef’s Choice menu (S$98 per person) of 6 servings plus a side of Heirloom Rice to be shared by the whole table—two persons in my case.

Three Starters…

The Chef’s Choice on my visit saw a trio of starters served simultaneously.

We had the excellent Fermented Cassava Bread with whipped mushroom “XO” butter; a moreish White Corn Relish with fermented snack peppers, pickled watermelon, and corn husk crisps; and my favourite Crispy Oyster Mushrooms dressed with coffee glaze and made interesting by way of long pepper.

AIR’s signature Fermented Cassava Bread had quite a unique texture. Served warm, its thin crisp crust draws attention to the denser, bouncy interior. Texturally more similar to a mochi bread than the usual open-crumbed sourdough loaves.

Cassava starch added a subtle sweetness, earthiness and tang that paired beautifully with the intensely savoury mushroom “XO” butter. A perfect beginning to the meal, and probably the most natural course to start. It truly belongs on every day.

I absolutely adored the generous portion of Crispy Oyster Mushrooms. The freeform plating exuded artful chaos. There was an unfamiliar rounded heat in every crunch with a slightly pungent piquancy that tickled the nose.

I later enquired and learnt that its from long pepper, an elongated cousin of our more common black pepper but with a more complex spice profile. The sticky coffee glaze balanced sweet and bitter notes that overall made this mushroom starter hit every taste bud of the palate.

Coming off the mushroom high, the White Corn Relish felt underwhelming. Between the fermented peppers and pickled watermelon, the flavours, while harmonious, were lighter than I prefer. The portion for two was princely, and honestly the saving grace personally were the excellent emping crisps that I wish we had more of.

Two Mains (plus an Activator)…

As the empty starter plates were quickly cleared, our (well quite literally the chef’s) choice of mains for the evening were the Andaliman pepper-spiced 1/2 Kampong Chicken accompanied by chimichurri with herbs from the garden, and the incredible Glazed Spanish Mackerel with umami scallop butter.

The charred skin of the chicken together with the herbaceous chimichurri was an instant hit on the palate. The chicken was extremely juicy—not something usually associated with free-range birds—and seasoned just right down to the bone. Andaliman peppers contributes a floral, citrusy aroma to the dish similar to how Sichuan peppercorns do.

Half a bird between two diners amidst everything else is very, very generous (we even had leftovers, which I happily brought back for a great next-day lunch).

Before I speak, do you see how impossibly perfect the cook on this fish was?! Beautifully seared skin, opaque edges and a barely translucent center that had just the right amount of blush. The Spanish Mackerel resists the fork, but only just, and had the cleanest flavour.

Next let’s talk about the scallop butter. Thin shreds of scallop hid in plain sight, but carry more than their weight in flavour, imparting a savoury brineyness to the butter that moistened the plate—a stroke of genius incorporating the two. The charred zucchini rounds were unremarkable next to the fish, but I enjoyed them still.

AIR uses the term activator to refer to its side dishes. Again, my curiosity was piqued and I asked why activators. An activator in food is usually an element that is fermented or can lead to fermentation, such as wild yeast cultures, SCOBYs, and koji. The latter is a specialised mould used in the production of sake and rice wines.

The water and vinegar koji-led fermentation is used to prepare our side of Heirloom Rice, which had a toothsome texture and a subtle sweetness. Very tasty and made me think about unconventional liquids I can use to steam rice at home.

…And a Dessert.

Where the starters and mains are designed for sharing, AIR encourages greed when it comes to sweet endings. Desserts are meant to be served individually, but luckily for me our dining party of two could experience both Vanilla & Coconut Ice Cream with black sesame, and Kaffir Lime Gelato with tamarillo.

The more fruity of the two desserts was a showstopper in every right. Visually stunning with warm hues of red, yellow and cream; texturally interesting with the soft creaminess of the gelato, crunch of passionfruit and juiciness of tamarillo pulp; and dynamically flavourful with its acidicity, sweetness and dairy lush. I fully enjoyed this dessert and would gladly have a second bowl.

Moving on to a heavier body, the black sesame praline really shines in this dessert. Full-bodied earthiness that permeates every spoonful, and the kinako powder leans further into the realm of nuttiness. Vanilla and coconut were absolutely the perfect subtle backdrop for the sesame. My dining partner loved this one.

The Chef’s note on the menu was certainly more truth than hyperbole: where desserts are designed not for sharing, but for individual enjoyment. Not just in portion, but in preference—there is something for everyone.

The Last Bite

AIR CCCC offers compelling value in its S$98 Chef’s Choice menu. The 6 sharing courses plus sides and dessert is more food than I’d imagined, and with more hits than misses, it is one I highly recommend and would return for.

My meal highlights included the fermented potato AIR Fries, fermented cassava bread, grilled kampong chicken, glazed Spanish mackerel, and kaffir lime-tamarillo dessert.

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What resonated with me more than the flavours were the intentions and stories behind the craft. Knowing that ingredients are locally-sourced—paying homage and respect to the growers and farmers—adds an intangible connection to the dining experience I rarely feel at more renowned restaurants.

The AIR team is always creating, always innovating, and always learning. My next visit may be completely different from the last, and I am even more excited by that thought.

Thank you to the AIR CCCC team and Kim for hosting us with this incredible experience.

AIR CCCC
25B Dempsey Rd,
Singapore 249918 (Maps)

Wed–Sun 11.30AM–10PM
Breakfast: Fri–Sun, 8–11AM
SUN(SET): Fri–Sun, 3–10PM
See full schedule here

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