Maybe it is recency bias or maybe it is simply my longstanding affinity for the name, but when Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur calls, I will answer. There is something stirring about being summoned to a place you have imagined for months, especially one perched in the second tallest building in the world.

I had originally come to the hotel for Negroni Week at Cacao, slipping into the kind of casual mid-week visit that never hints at becoming something more. One moment I was there for a drink, and the next I found myself being led through the dining room at Merdeka Grill, the warm light and clinking of cutlery in the space settling around me. Serendipitous is the only way I can describe it.

Bread & Bubbles

Before anything else, the bread course arrived. The brioche was warm, golden, fragrant, and pull-apart soft, releasing a gentle rise of buttery steam the moment I tore into it. I had heard mixed opinions about the bread service at Merdeka Grill and braced myself for a modest start, only to find myself pleasantly surprised. Bread service is complimentary here, and from what I have seen across social media and subsequent posts, the brioche appears to be the consistent offering rather than part of a rotating bread programme. The accompanying spiced dip, likely a muhammara, added warmth without overshadowing the bread’s natural richness. It was an unexpectedly strong beginning.

Head sommelier Peter Teng poured the opening glass of the evening, a Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve (RM136, glass) from Mareuil-sur-Ay. The champagne felt celebratory and bright, the kind of pour that set the tone for dining at altitude. Park Hyatt KL is one of the rare cellars pouring Billecart by the glass, made possible by a Coravin preservation system that also keeps their Spanish Macán Clásico Rioja (RM120, glass) and sweet Ann Ghione Moscato d’Asti (RM69, glass) in pristine condition. The pours felt curated, intentional, and paced with conversation rather than ceremony, tasting portions that revealed glimpses of the hotel’s wine program without overwhelming the evening.

The dining room was far livelier than I expected of a place bearing the Park Hyatt name. Warm light softened the palette of mahogany, bamboo, brass, and marble. Florals added delicacy to the neutral interiors. Our table sat in a quieter corner of the elongated restaurant, a little removed from the main flow but with the nightscape of Kuala Lumpur glowing just beyond the glass. It felt cosy and slightly isolated, allowing conversation to unfold naturally without the need to raise our voices.

Despite being out of direct sight, service never faltered. Staff appeared the moment they were needed, and disappeared the moment they sensed we were content. The counter itself offers an insightful glimpse into the chefs’ precision and coordination, although it is not the most interactive seat given the team’s responsibility for the entire restaurant. Still, diners who enjoy a view of culinary choreography may appreciate it.

The First Flavours

We began our dinner with a duo of signature starters. The Spicy Angus Steak Tartare (RM128) was seasoned with the sweetness of Nashi pear and the heat of a gochujang-like dressing, lifted by the richness of egg yolk emulsion. The texture was excellent, unsurprising given the quality of the beef. What looked like crisped rice paper turned out to be puffed beef tendon, airy and intriguing, transforming something typically gelatinous into something crisp and almost whimsical. Yet my personal preference for tartare leans French with mustard, capers, and shallots, so while I admired the creativity, it did not strike a deep chord with me.

The Coconut Lobster Bisque (RM158) absolutely did. Arriving as a small tower of seafood, the dish transformed before us as the bisque was poured tableside. Its sunset-orange hue flooded the bowl with warmth. Scallop, white fish, crustacean intensity, and the lift of coconut espuma came together as a symphony of oceanic flavour that carried both richness and lightness. It was the kind of first sip that makes you pause. Even more remarkable was the prawn toast served alongside it. A simple sheet of brown bread topped with prawn salad, yet somehow it delivered a perfect balance of sweetness, savouriness, and texture. My internal reaction was pure admiration that something so unassuming could be so good.

The mains took a short while to arrive, likely due to a busy evening and the choreography of the open kitchen. I remember glancing briefly over my shoulder to see how the team was moving and a staff member appeared almost instantly to apologise for the delay. It was such a small moment, but one that left an impression. Anticipatory service is a subtle art, and Merdeka Grill demonstrated it beautifully that night.

Cedar & Smoke

We continued with two signatures for the mains. First was the Salmon Roasted on Cedar Wood (RM295). As with many of the dishes here, service unfolded with a quiet theatricality. The thick fillet arrived on the plank it had been roasted on, carrying the scent of cedar that filled the air with a woody smokiness. I was glad I happened to be recording, because the moment the fish was transferred from plank to plate, it bent and bounced with a suppleness that stole an audible gasp from my lips. I knew, even before the first cut, that the texture would be spectacular. A side salad of green grapes and cucumbers added a whimsical touch, their twin green hues playing tricks on the eye. Generous spoonfuls of caviar smoked butter sauce completed the dish. But no element, however thoughtful, compared to the perfection of the salmon itself.

When my dining companion sliced into it, the interior revealed a translucent blush so beautiful it made me say “wow” aloud. Even now, replaying that moment as I write this brings a chill down my spine. Every bite turned into silk. Tender, juicy, buttery, yet still perfectly flaked. I genuinely do not know how fish can be prepared better than this. It was the most astonishing cook of the year for me.

Understandably, the following course could not eclipse the salmon. The 7 Days Dry Aged Chateaubriand (RM799), however, was still excellent in its own right. A princely 400g slab of Australian Goulburn Valley beef was carved tableside. I noticed the knife struggling slightly and wondered if the steak would be too rare, but the cut revealed a deep, even pink that confirmed a proper medium rare. The sauces that accompanied it ranged from striking to forgettable. A fermented green pepper sauce carried exotic notes reminiscent of long pepper I once tasted at AIR CCCC in Singapore. The béarnaise was rich, almost to the point of cloying. The green nam jim and sherry vinegar jus were pleasant but not memorable. In place of traditional horseradish, the restaurant offered fresh grated wasabi that delivered an unmistakable pungency, the kind that clears the senses and cuts through fat with elegance. The truffled Yukon Gold mashed potatoes, despite the promise of their description, were good but nothing extraordinary. A sprinkle of flaked salt turned the steak from good to great almost instantly, reaffirming what I have always believed: most steaks need little more than salt to be extraordinary.

When we were done, Kris approached with a grin that hinted at a secret. He asked how we enjoyed the steak, and when we answered that it was good, he revealed proudly that Merdeka Grill operates entirely as a flameless kitchen. Due to safety protocols at this altitude, no gas is permitted, meaning every charred and roasty note is the result of electric precision rather than open flame. That detail reframed the entire experience. The level of technical control required to achieve those flavours without fire is something I deeply respect.

Sweet Endings

Dessert has always been the part of any meal I look forward to most, and at Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur, that feels especially true. I had already known of Executive Pastry Chef Holger Deh’s influence across the hotel, but tasting his work in the context of dinner made it clearer why pastry is treated here with the same seriousness as the savoury programme. 

We began with a swirl of Penang vanilla soft serve topped with T’lur caviar (RM88). The novelty alone made me pause. The salinity of the caviar added depth and savouriness, enhancing the fragrance of the vanilla rather than overwhelming it. This vanilla, sourced from Penang, is also the one that perfumes the hotel’s now-famous Mille feuille, and it makes all the difference. The soft serve had an almost gelato-like chew, rich yet delicate, simple yet indulgent. Among all the desserts I have tried this year, this one stands out, caviar or not. T’lur Caviar is also from Malaysian waters, an unlikely sturgeon farm in Tanjung Malim, Perak.

The Dark Chocolate Sphere (RM88) followed as a final act of theatre. A metal cup of cognac was set aflame and poured over the dome, melting it to reveal a brioche baba, lime, cocoa crumble, and the fizzle of popping candy. It was bold and dramatic, leaning into sensory overload, a contrast to the quiet purity of the soft serve. I enjoyed its richness and playfulness, but my preference leaned firmly towards the soft serve. Interestingly, the chocolate sphere has since been replaced on Merdeka Grill’s menu with a 70 percent dark chocolate cake paired with lychee sorbet and grapefruit, which sounds equally enticing.

On Altitude, Attitude & Ambition

As I left Merdeka Grill that night, a single thought formed clearly: this was special. Not perfect, and not without its uneven moments, but special in its execution and the emotional voltage it carried. The prices border on astronomical, and naturally that shapes expectations. Some dishes met them, some soared far beyond them, and others left me wanting more. But the peaks (especially that salmon) will stay with me for a long time.

Merdeka Grill positions itself as a contemporary grillhouse with Nordic sensibilities woven through Executive Chef Stig Drageide’s perspective, bringing a new sense of altitude and ambition to Kuala Lumpur, both literally and figuratively. Part of that ambition also lies in the restaurant’s quiet commitment to provenance. Merdeka Grill places careful emphasis on locally sourced produce, sustainable practices, and a respect for ingredients that shapes the menu more deeply than most diners might immediately realise. It is not presented as a manifesto, but the intent is there, informing the way the kitchen cooks and the way each plate feels.

It stands as one of the city’s newest dining rooms built for significance, for celebrations, and for those who appreciate reflective cuisine shaped by precise technique. I would return for lunch, for a meaningful occasion, or simply to relive that perfect salmon once more. Reservations, surprisingly, are not difficult to secure for dinner. Unlike Park Lounge’s afternoon tea, which books out quickly (especially on weekends), Merdeka Grill remains relatively accessible. Even if availability appears full online, calling the restaurant directly may yield a table.

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Merdeka Grill
Level 75, Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur,
Warisan Merdeka Tower
Presint Merdeka 118, 50118 Kuala Lumpur (Maps)

Lunch: 12–3PM
Dinner: 6–10.30PM

@merdekagrill | Website & Menus | Reservations

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