Cinephiles may know GSC’s Aurum Theatre at The Exchange TRX for its plush halls and cinematic indulgence. Fewer realise that behind the plush seats lies Hokkaido Table, a Japanese–Italian restaurant that also houses a discreet omakase counter simply called Hokkaido Table Omakase.

Set apart from the livelier bistro area, the omakase room is a cocoon of blond wood and warm light that fits barely a dozen diners. It’s intimate without being intimidating. Each seat faces the chefs directly, creating a rhythm of quiet observation as dishes take shape in front of you. At the helm is Chef Edwin, a seasoned maestro of Japanese cuisine whose three decades of experience span Japan, Switzerland, Singapore, and Malaysia. His approach fuses the purity of Japanese produce with the heart of Italian flavours, a pairing that might sound unlikely, yet in his hands, the two traditions find harmony.

Amidst TRX’s glass façades, Hokkaido Table Omakase surreptitiously offers one of the city’s most compelling lunch experiences. The RM188 five-course menu distils the essence of a full omakase into about an hour—refined enough for indulgence, efficient enough for a workday. The menu shifts with Hokkaido’s seasons; I visited during the October–December lineup, so future diners may find something slightly different awaiting them.

The Measured Moments

First to the table was the Zuwaigani Korokke, or snow crab croquette. A deep-fried appetiser felt unexpected as the opening bite. Served with Japanese mayo and tonkatsu sauce, it was rich and assertive in flavour. I might have enjoyed it more had it arrived later in the meal, but it certainly made an impression.

The second course revealed the restaurant’s personality more clearly. I watched as the chefs placed freshly steamed squid and prawns into a bowl, expecting a light dashi or clear broth to follow. Instead, they ladled over a creamy tomato soup. Cioppino at an omakase—who would’ve thought? Hokkaido Table draws inspiration from both Italian and Japanese cuisines, echoing the approach found in their bistro next door. The soup was delicious, smooth and full-bodied, though I wished the mussels had been more present—one had shrunk away, and the other was missing entirely.

The two main courses arrived in quick succession. First, the herb-crusted Lamb Loin Roulade with mashed potatoes, roasted root vegetables, and lamb jus. The meat was lean yet perfectly tender, with just enough bite to be satisfying. I caught a faint note of blueberry in the crust—perhaps an illusion, but one that made me wonder if lamb and blueberry should meet more often. The mash was smooth, the vegetables competent though a touch more colour would have lifted the plate. For non–red-meat eaters, I noticed another guest receiving a grilled threadfin in its place, a thoughtful alternative.

The standout was without question the Sushi Moriawase—four beautiful pieces of nigiri shaped before us at the counter. The shari (sushi rice) was lightly seasoned, warm to the touch, and compact without being dense. We were advised to eat from left to right: chutoro (medium-fatty tuna belly), kampachi (kingfish), shake (Atlantic salmon trout), and amaebi (sweet prawn). Each delivered what its texture promised—the melting tenderness of chutoro, the almost crisp bite of kampachi. It was the course that lingered longest with me, both in flavour and feeling.

Lunch ended with Momo Daifuku, a soft white peach mochi imported from Japan. The wrapper was fresh and smooth, not dry as mochi sometimes can be. Still, following the satisfaction of the lamb and sushi courses, the simplicity of the mochi felt underwhelming. Loyal readers will know how much I value dessert; this one left me wanting a more deliberate finale.

Service was efficient without feeling brisk, tuned to the needs of a midday crowd. Courses arrived in smooth sequence, explanations were succinct yet attentive and my cup of hot ocha was never empty. The overall vibe felt measured, private and unhurried.

A Midday Retreat in the Business District

The five-course omakase respects both palate and schedule, comfortably finished within an hour. For professionals nearby, it’s a welcome departure from the formulaic power lunch.

At only RM188, Hokkaido Table Omakase delivers remarkable value for the quality and craft involved. The ingredients are premium without feeling showy, and the hour passes just slowly enough. There are moments that surprise—the fusion of Italian warmth into a Japanese framework, or the hint of sweetness in the lamb crust—and moments that simply impress, like the balance and generosity of the sushi course.

This is one menu worth considering for your next business lunch or midday indulgence between desk hours. If you’re looking for the full omakase experience, Hokkaido Table Omakase has 7-course versions available for dinners—look out for exclusive collaborations like its Chefs Table series or Champagne Pairing Dinners.

Bonus tip: For the ultimate indulgence, you can opt to have the 5-course omakase experience from the comfort of a Getha Lux Suite all-day long (11AM–9PM).

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Hokkaido Table
L2.15.0, Level 2,
The Exchange TRX, Persiaran TRX,
Tun Razak Exchange, 55188 Kuala Lumpur

Omakase Lunch: 11AM–2PM
Omakase Dinner: 6–10PM
All-day Bistro: 11AM–10PM

Instagram: @hokkaidotabletrx
Menus & Website | Reservations

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