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Review: The Sunday Lunch at Fritz, Troika Sky Dining

COVER Sunday Lunch at Fritz, Troika Sky Dining

One Sunday a month, Fritz opens its doors for an excellent prix-fixe lunch service. Fritz Sunday Lunch happens on the last Sunday of every month, offering unbeatable value for fantastic French fare and hospitality.

In a world obsessed with tweezed perfection, Fritz flips the script — serving up honest, unpretentious dishes in a relaxed retreat where guests can truly savour every bite.

The food menu is priced at RM220++ per guest, consisting of 6 courses with 11 or so items, not inclusive of beverages and there is the free-flow Lombardi champagne add-on (RM450++) if you are feeling particularly celebratory! The menu changes every month so there is always something new and fresh even for returning guests.

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ABOVE Fritz Sunday Lunch menu for 23 Feb 2025

ABOVE Entrance to Fritz (left), Main dining area (right)

We were greeted at the main lobby and escorted to the sun-lit dining room with one of the best views of Kuala Lumpur. With its three-storey-tall floor to ceiling windows on two sides, the dining space is bathed in natural light. The bright, airy room evokes the charm of a sunlit Parisian terrace — an experience that is simultaneously intimate and refreshingly relaxed.

ABOVE The view of KL’s skyline from Fritz, Troika Sky Dining

The restaurant seats up to 105 guests across its indoor dining areas, al fresco terraces, and a private room with its own balcony. Fritz occupies the space that once was home to fine dining restaurant Cantaloupe and some remnants of the former titan were kept for old time’s sake. Peep the old Cantaloupe sign at the entrance and it’s bar plaque above the seafood counter.

ABOVE Scenes from Fritz

the menu

ABOVE Garlic bread, buckwheat baguette & homemade salted butter

Lunch started off strong with some of the best butter I’ve ever tasted. Fritz produces its own salted butter, made with three-day-cultured cream that created a wonderful lactic tang — my first thought when I nibbled on it neat was: “is this cheese?” I hope this butter will one day be available as a take-home order!

The buckwheat baguette was very earthy, and the garlic bread was heavy on the butter (a tad greasy for my dining partners but I really enjoyed it). The phrase “lots of butter” is almost synonymous with French cuisine, and is a recurring theme throughout this meal, as you will see.

ABOVE Fritz Seafood Platter

No menu at Fritz is complete without its signature Seafood Platter, comprised of freshly shucked oysters and mussels on ice, cocktail prawns and sashimi; February’s choice is tuna.

The platter is served alongside a pair of accoutrements — shoyu for sashimi-dipping, and tartare for mussel-slathering. We enjoyed the latter very much. Oysters were fresh and briny, and the tuna luscious but both mostly unremarkable. The shrimp was excellent, sweet and succulent with a satisfying crunch.

ABOVE Beef consomme royale

The beef consommé was served at the table from an ivory white teapot. While the dish is named after the clarified broth, the true highlights were the marooned creamy egg pudding and the knife technique on the vegetables. A wonderful light prelude to the coming entrées.

Brunoise is one of the classic French knife cuts to prepare ingredients in equally sized tiny dices — executed very well at Fritz and much appreciated.

ABOVE Scallop Gratin

After the first few courses I was starting to feel a hint satiety creeping in. And then I laughed when I heard the words “the next course is a trio of starters”. The preamble of scallop, mackerel and tomato dishes were all prepared very competently and I enjoyed them all.

The unanimous star of the bunch was the huge Hokkaido scallop, seared then broiled on its half-shell with a cheesy orange-infused sabayon and confit leek. Presentation was nothing short of impressive — the palm-sized scallop shell sitting on a bed of rock salt. I’d go so far to say as this is the most generous a scallop serving I’ve had in a while.

Orange brought an atypical floral scent to the gratin, but it works swimmingly with the seafood. It’s the kind of closed-eye-deep-sigh kind of satisfaction I look for in food.

ABOVE Tomato Tart

The other two starters were less preferred by my partners: One is not the biggest fan of tomatoes, and the other not of the intense smokiness from European-style hot-smoked fish.

The tomato tart is a slight nod to France’s culinary rival and it’s world-famous cheese and tomato on bread dish, giving pizza a run for its money with buttery puff pastry. Toasted and Provencal-spiced almonds brought complex crunch to the umami tomatoes and onion jam, and brightened with a spring of chervil.

ABOVE Smoked Mackerel Paté

The most exciting part of a multi-course menu like this experiencing the variety of flavours, preparations and presentations. Served as a sharing portion for two, each plate of smoked mackerel pate came with a pair of focaccia batons (the ratio of bread to pate is a little off balance, but I digress).

The intense smokiness of the fish is typical of Scandinavian preparations, but it is not for everyone. Personally, I thoroughly enjoyed it because of that and how the candied kumquat and horseradish-preserved lemon cream played so well off each other. I would say “more bread please” but had to show restraint for the mains to come.

This month’s choices of mains were a pressed lamb rib with a side of herby broccoli and cauliflower couscous, or a salmon coulibiac (similar to a Wellington) served with dill beurre blanc.

ABOVE Pressed lamb rib

The lamb was seared to crisp up the edges, that contrasted with the meltingly tender lamb meat and fat layers. The accompanying lamb jus had good flavour but perhaps not the most elegant presentation at the table. I was not a fan of the mint in the couscous, though it does suit the lamb very well. Pearl enjoyed this dish very much, even asking for more of that delicious jus.

ABOVE Salmon coulibiac carvery (left), plated coulibiac with dill beurre blanc (right)

Sean and I opted for the salmon, plated table-side a la silver service. The salmon’s texture was absolutely divine! Soft and flakey, but still very moist as though it was poached instead of baked. The mushroom duxelles was also nicely brunoised, and flanked the fish alongside a crown of spinach.

Even though the fillings were not dry, the puff pastry still held up with all it’s buttery glory. Butter on butter is the unspoken theme here, so of course more butter in the form of a dilly sauce spooned on the side. I wolfed down the entire plate as demurely as I could!

ABOVE Potato salad with duck prosciutto (left), garlic butter French beans (right)

Mains were accompanied by two side dishes: this menu had an excellent duck prosciutto potato salad, and sautéed French beans blanketed in garlicky beurre noisette. Guess which one I liked better.

Both! The potato salad dressing had a touch of wine vinegar and heat from wholegrain mustard. Potatoes were the firm, waxy kind that held up against the heavy sauce. Fritz prepares many of its meat products in-house, including this excellent smoked duck prosciutto.

Also, one can almost never go wrong with adding burnt butter to anything. A simple vegetable dressed in this liquid gold clears any other preparation. Savoury, buttery, aromatic, a touch herbaceous and overall very lovely plate of tender-cooked beans.

ABOVE Dessert cart (left), plated plum galette & mont-blanc (right)

A good two-hours plus later, even the best meals must come to an end. Dessert is served table-side from a shapeshifting dome. February’s offerings were a plum and thyme galette served a scoop of whipped mascarpone, and a mini mont-blanc on the nicest sablé cookie.

The plums were acidic to contrast it’s nutty and slightly savoury base but the best part of the galette was the crust. As Sean not-so-elegantly stated that his first bite of that crisp crust had his toes curling in euphoria. The mont-blanc was an enjoyable bite with its rich, earthy chestnut paste complimenting the meringue filling and surprise blackcurrant sphere at its core. A wonderful end to a wonderful meal.

drinks

ABOVE Pewter Bar Top by Royal Selangor | Photo: Fritz

Drinks are shaken or stirred and poured at a stunning pewter-top bar, crafted by none other than Malaysian pride Royal Selangor. The beverage programme is quite extensive, with a long list of cocktails, spirits and wine. Pearl opted for a zero-proof Passionata, while Sean and I picked more the more boozy Gin Provencal and Espresso Martini.

ABOVE Passionata (left), Gin Provencal (middle), Espresso Martini (right)

Pearl’s Passionata is a non-alcoholic passionfruit and pineapple mocktail that was very refreshing with a touch of creaminess from white chocolate. The chili salt rim takes each sip up a notch. Sean’s Gin Provencal cocktail is shaken with peach liquor, lemon, chrysanthemum, and albumen. The starburst lemon peel was a stunning visual for this easy sip.

I ordered the Espresso Martini towards the end of the meal, pairing it with our desserts. The coffee cocktail was strong and sweetened, the way I like it, with notes of vanilla and pineapple for a tropical vibe.


The verdict: The monthly Sunday Lunch at Fritz is definitely an experience worth seeking out. Not only do you get the exclusivity of a once-a-month affair, but also one of the bang-for-your-buck meals in one of the most beautiful restaurants in the city. Service is also top notch, garnering a strong recommendation from Nacre.

Thank you to the team at Fritz for hosting us.

ABOVE Fritz, Troika Sky Dining | Photo: Fritz

Fritz
Troika Sky Dining
Level 23A Tower B, The Troika,
19 Persiaran KLCC,
50450 Kuala Lumpur

Operating Hours: 5.00PM–12.00AM daily
T: +603-2162 0886
Website | Instagram | Menu
Reserve here


From the table to the world beyond, Nacre brings you dining, travel, and lifestyle experiences worth savouring. Explore more with us on Instagram (@nacre.asia).

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