“FOLLOW THE PENGUIN” — A simple instruction was mailed to me on a black card with geometric art resembling the marine bird; And follow I did. On the top floor of an unostentatious shop row in Damansara Heights, guided only by a sign with the same geometric penguin, I stepped into the dimly lit space of Humboldt.

The latest concoction of Lolita Goh and Joshua Ivanovic, masterminds behind the popular rum bar JungleBird, Humboldt is heavily inspired by Ivanovic’s surfing adventures in South America and the lift-giving Humboldt current that runs north along the coasts of Peru and Chile. The dramatic, bright orange polygonal backdrop that envelops bar-seated guests pays homage to the arid desertscapes of the Sechura, Nazca and Atacama.

The decisively designed space features cosy booth, communal tables for gatherings, and a long counter where you get front-row seats to the bar show. A curvy light fixture nicknamed “The Current” runs the length of the bar ties the 65-seater space together. For a more intimate setting, a private room that fits eight sits discreetly behind a hidden door.

Cocktails

Ivanovic leads the bar programme, crafting specialty cocktails inspired by and using South American elements. Pisco is in charge of a number of drinks on the Humboldt menu, including Pisco Sour and Chilcano. If you are unfamiliar with pisco, it is a Peruvian and Chilean liquor made from distilling fermented grape juices into a high-proof spirit, and is a personal favourite of mine.

The Humboldt team is not one to shy away from theatrics, the first drink of the night — Melon con Vino — was poured into long-stemmed martini glasses at the table. Just one sip was enough booze to feel like a wake-up slap. The legion of spirits from vodka and Midori melon liquer, to citrusy China China and floral Lillet Blanc came together to create a heady cocktail. By all means it is not a martini, but it certainly drinks like one. An interesting choice for the night’s introduction to Humboldt, but one that I wholly welcome.

As a diehard Pisco Sour lover, naturally I had very high expectations when I saw it on the menu. Here, they use Chilean pisco and a house-made Mistela crafted through a painstaking process of ageing, juicing and clarifying muscat grapes. The concept is very interesting but alas the final product was a bit of a letdown to me; the drink lacked the acidity and strength that I’m familiar with in Peruvian pisco sours.

Edited 24/1/2025: We revisited Humboldt to give the Pisco Sours another shot and they were quite different from the first! Much more acidity and potent this time and the Mistela really came through, which we also tried on its own. Josh also poured me a Lychee Martini, his latest creation, that I really loved for its fruity sweetness and monstrous strength.

Now this is a mind-blowing concoction! The Chilcano is the most unique and favoured drink of the four: with a base of Chilean El Gobernador pisco and pungent heat from the combination of young ginger, Bentong ginger and torch ginger plus mustard and cider. Chilcano was described to me as a gentle tease on the senses, but it felt more like an assault on them in the best possible way. Very unique, and truly embodying the vision the founders have for Humboldt.

Side note: this cocktail had the most repeated orders among guests that night.

The Chocolate Santafereño is presented at the end of the meal as a dessert cocktail — potent, saccharine and tastes very much like chocolate. The intense cocoa flavour honestly surprised me, no doubt thanks to its inconspicuous and limpid appearance. Ivanovic is a maestro when it comes to rum, and it really shows in this sweet ending. My fellow diners had contrasting opinions though, largely due to how sweet it was but that is exactly why I enjoyed it: as a dessert; elaborate plated creations not needed.

Food

Lolita spearheads the food programme in the kitchen — expect bold flavours and recipes that have been meticulously developed in-house to reflect the rich tapestry of South America’s cuisine and culture like empanadas, ceviche and something rather unexpected (keep reading to find out).

I sampled a trio of empanadas, each representing a different country of Peru, Colombia and Ecuador.

• Pollo, the Peruvian word for chicken, is filled with a hefty portion of pulled chicken in an aji pepper sauce; A protein-packed snack that is so juicy it almost self-sauces.
• The Colombian-inspired Pipián with potatoes, peanuts and aji de mani on the side has flavours and textures reminiscent of our local satay and curry puffs, but with a distinct Latin-ish touch.
• Rounding out the trio is Viento, the Ecuadorian representative, and my favourite of the three featuring cheese, caramelised onions paired with aji de tomate sauce. The cheese stretches as far as the kitchen’s vision and the onions lend a nutty sweetness to the rich cheese.

Anticuchos are meat skewers native to the Andean region traditionally eaten as inexpensive street food. A variety of these skewers bring heat and meat to Humboldt’s menu, such as Corazon (beef heart) and Pollo. Skewered heart (how poetic) is an acquired taste, but I really enjoyed the rendition here with cumin and chimuchurri. The ají verde drizzled-chicken skewers are no slouch either, getting smokiness from the deep char, and savouriness from cotija cheese. Tapas worthy of your tastebuds.

The words Toast and Tamarillo are not a pairing that inherently screams bar food, but here it kind of works. Crunchy sheets of yuba-like lavash bread served as the vehicle for the sage, basil and tamarillo butter on the side, which is the main star of the dish. Tamarillo is a fruit native to the Andes that bears physical resemblance to a cherry tomato but tastes like a mix of kiwifruit, guava, and a hint of tomato. Personally, I felt the bread was a touch greasy and the butter a little bit too salty, but the flavours work so a little adjustment would go a long way.

One of my personal highlights was the Yuca Frita or fried tapioca batons, served with a Colombian avocado and egg dip that lent a creamy, tangy and slightly hot layers of flavour to the starchy tuber. The tapioca has a thin crisp exterior dusted with a special spice blend that reminded me of Chinese salt and pepper preparations, and the inside was fluffy and tender. Highly recommend getting this for sharing over some Pisco Sours.

Ceviche is one of the most popular dishes associated with South American cuisine, with different regions having distinct characteristics and preparations, but centers around the curing effect of citrus acidity on fresh seafood. The camarón (shrimp) offering at Humboldt was lacking in acidity and flavour, though the shrimp was of acceptable freshness. I would much prefer a mouth-puckering tart marinade for ceviche.

Like Asian countries, South Americans have historically incorporated rice and grain as staple foods in their cuisine. Arroz con Menestra sees heirloom rice of different shapes and sizes stewed together with plump lima beans then tossed together with fresh vegetables like onions, peppers and tender herbs. Enjoyable, this hearty plate fares nicely as a side or accompaniment to the other protein entrées.

Fish and coconut milk take centerstage in Pescado Encocado (literally its namesake). The pan-seared ikejime barramundi fillet was cooked to absolute perfection — crisp skin, tender flakey white flesh, all while keeping the delicate of ocean fish flavour. I thoroughly enjoyed the creamy coconut and aji gravy that surrounded the fillet. How ironic is it when the fish becomes the island? Topped with a fresh salsa, this is a must-order at Humboldt, I’d more than love to have a serving all to myself.

And finally… the piece de resistánce: Conejo Chactado. Looking both intimidating and impressive at the same time, the array of colours wowed everyone at the table. And honestly, if no one told me I never would have expected to be eating rabbit that night! This platter is Lolita’s take on a Peruvian delicacy made with guinea pig or cuy shallow-fried until golden and crisp.

Someone said the rabbit tastes like crab, and another said chicken. To me it had the texture of pulled pork, and the flavour was somewhere between a chicken, turkey and lobster of all things! I enjoyed the root vegetables on the side with its paper-thin crust and fluffy interior, but the coleslaw-looking salad was not my cup of tea.

If you are an adventurous eater and like trying uncommon delicacies, the conejo is a no-brainer. It comes in two portion sizes: half or whole, for just a few or a voracious group of friends.

Space

As the night progressed, the ambience shifted from serious to lively, with live DJs spinning dance records till late. I had a great time connecting with new and familiar people at Humboldt over unique drinks and even more unusual foods. They deserve a spot on your to-visit lists, if you can secure a table!

The Humboldt penguin, named Humboldt (of course), is heavily featured on the walls of the bar. This vulnerable penguin represents the sophistication and exclusivity the establishment embodies, and its plight and decreasing populations due to climate change have not gone unnoticed. Humboldt will be committed to raising awareness and working with non-profits for beach clean-ups and ocean preservation.

Humboldt
73-1, Jalan Setia Bakti,
Bukit Damansara,
50490 Kuala Lumpur

Operation Hours: 5.00PM till late (Wednesday–Sunday)
T: +603 2388 3976
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Reservations are highly encouraged.