A sunny Monday afternoon saw Nacre visit Coast by Kayra in the revamped The Starhill at the heart of Kuala Lumpur’s Golden Triangle. Stepping into the space, we were greeted with warm and welcoming hospitality and brought to our table along the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Natural light from the skylight filtered in softly and the ambience was just right for light conversation over lunch, while the kitchen team was hard at work, seamlessly dancing around each other in choreographed concert. Hues of blue and gold accents permeated the space, subtly emphasising the coastal theme of the restaurant.

Owner and third-generation Keralite-Malaysian Meriam Alfonso, who also owns the Michelin Selected Kayra in Bangsar, has worked with Executive Chef Sal Sabeel to take a deeper dive into the treasure trove that is Kerala’s seafood-centric cuisine. Kayra has established itself as the go-to restaurant for authentic Keralan cuisine, and has garnered a loyal community of patrons over the years.

Some of Kayra’s signature dishes have also made their way over to it sister restaurant, but Coast stands proudly with its distinct identity in exclusive signature dishes. Chef Sabeel’s approach to his art is a combination of age-old culinary practices passed down through generations in his family, and the modern curiosity in using catches and produce available to him.

The Coast menu showcases high quality seafood sourced from our Malaysian shores, which mirrors the abundance of the coastal region of Kerala. Freshness is an invisible ingredient in food, so the Coast team sources its ingredients locally to get top quality produce, while supporting local farmers and communities.

starters

ABOVE Dahi Puri Shooters — Crab Meat & Crab Rasam

Lunch began with a duo of starters, the first being Dahi Puri Shooters with Crab Meat & Crab Rasam (RM50, 4 pieces). Coast’s elevated takes of traditional Indian snacks put crustaceans at the forefront. A crisp sphere made from puffed rice encases rich crab meat and topped with briny salmon roe and sour cream; a more texturally interesting version of caviar on blini. We were told to pop the whole puri into our mouths, bite down and savour an explosion of flavour, then chase it down with the shot of savoury and slightly tangy crab rasam. I took a curious half-bite just to see what goodness lay within.

The second starter — Mini Appam with Sea Tiger Prawn (RM38, 2 pieces) features huge succulent sea prawns coated with a spicy, savoury and herbaceous sauce. A tangle of crisp shredded beetroot added fun texture to the dish. The mini appam boats were sturdy enough to hold its contents, but soft to the tooth. Flavour-wise, this is one of my highlights.

seafood

One simply cannot pass up on the vast selection of seafood when dining at a restaurant so aptly named Coast!

ABOVE Spanish Mackerel

From the huge tandoor ovens imported from Kerala, we sampled the Spanish Mackerel (RM60) prepared Tikka-style. The huge chunks of fresh mackerel had the loveliest char on the outside, nicely seasoned and hid a pearlescent white interior.

The fish was marinated in a blend of curry leaves, coriander and raw mango before being fired to smokey perfection. Mackerel is a firm, oily fish that stands up to a heavy marinade such as this one, and paired with the accompanying turmeric sour cream, lightly pickled starfruit and fresh cucumber, brought a light yet interesting flavour profile to the table.

ABOVE Seafood Biryani

The centrepiece of our lunch table in both size and visual appeal was the Seafood Biryani (RM250). This huge bowl of spiced rice can easily feed 3-4 persons, and comes adorned with fresh squid, green mussels, and charred tiger prawns. The fragrant basmathi rice is laced with blue swimmer crab meat and cooked with crab broth; certainly not your average biryani.

Pair the rice and seafood with the accompanying green apple raita (very good!) and mango pickles to cut through the richness of this flavour bomb. I really appreciate a well-prepared biryani with fluffy rice and the right balance of spices, herbs and a touch of sweetness from both dried fruit and fried onions.

ABOVE Kerala Fish Curry — Red Snapper Fillet

Opting for a rice main also opens up the possibility of dousing it with thick rich gravies, such as the Kerala Fish Curry with Red Snapper Fillet (RM60). Coast’s fish curry is by far one of the best we’ve tasted! The fish is as fresh as it gets, but the true secret lies in the curry — this is a cherished family recipe of the Chef’s where they include raw mangoes and yoghurt to achieve the signature flavour profile and tanginess. This is an absolute must-try at Coast and I would come back just to have this with a bowl of steaming hot rice.

bread

We had an assortment of bread — an essential part of Keralan meals, to pair with the saucy dishes. The bread menu at Coast is extensive, with some varieties I have never heard of.

ABOVE Variety of bread: Khameer, Bakarkhani & Green Butter Herb Naan

We were recommended the Khameer (RM16), which is a puffed up wholewheat bread studded with sesame seeds, and served straight out of the oven steaming hot. This bread was delicious on its own.

We also had the ghee and semolina tandoor-baked flat bread called Bakarkhani (RM18), which had a denser texture and mysteriously milky flavour that I really enjoyed. This bread paired swimmingly with the fish curry.

And lastly, the Green Butter Herb Naan (RM18) arrived crisp and brushed with melted herbed butter, a lighter version of the naan I am most familiar with. This bread was good on its own, but also dipped into the different kinds of gravy we feasted on.

vegetables

A whole head of Roasted Cauliflower (RM32) arrived to the table with drama; a steak knife stabbed into the heart of the vegetable. Cauliflower is a vegetable brought to India via trade on the Silk Road and while typically prepared in curries or soups, Coast sought to bring out earthy and nutty flavours through dry roasting it with spices. The bulbous brassica is roasted and grilled over charcoal, and served with a pepper chutney gravy and yoghurt on top. A decent addition to the menu, offering flavour and fibre.

ABOVE Stuffed Okra Mango Curry

The menu at Coast also presents many vegetable choices for the balanced diet we all should crave and have, such as the Stuffed Okra Mango Curry (RM30) and Grape Pachadi (RM30). Like most dishes at Coast, these vegetable entrées are best eaten with rice.

desserts

ABOVE Sweet Appam

It seems that appams are a popular snack/dessert these days across the city. Coast’s Sweet Appam (RM15) is undoubtedly the best one I’ve tried. It is a fairly simple pancake-adjacent creation, made with fermented rice flour and coconut, but the execution can vary quite drastically.

This one had a thin, crisp crust around a soft slightly stodgy middle characteristic of a traditional appam, but where some versions make it quite thick and wet, Coast’s appam is cooked to the perfect depth and texture. Even the gula melaka (coconut sugar) syrup was very fragrant, and the additional drizzle of coconut cream pushes the entire dessert over the edge.

So good that we had to order a second appam to share despite our stuffed bellies by the end of the meal. This, and the signature fish curry, should be enough reason for you to make the journey to Coast immediately.

On a more modern, elevated route, we tried two of their popular plated desserts. Both were visually beautiful, with intricate details and alive with flavours and textures.

Cocoa-Nut (RM40) featured award-winning Sabahan chocolate from Kota Marudu in the form of a mousse, jackfruit and calamansi confit, jackfruit ice cream, coconut sponge and a buckwheat crumble. The chocolate mousse was delightful, with complex flavour notes of sea hawthorn and red berries that paired nicely with the golden fruit confit. However, the jackfruit ice cream fell short of expectation with a very mild flavour, and the coconut sponge did not offer much in both flavour and texture to the plate.

Paradise Parfait (RM40) saw a mango semifreddo cast in a beautiful mould, accompanied by coconut and lemongrass sago parfait, mango passionfruit sorbet, and fresh fruits. The entire dessert had a lot of textures going on, but overall also fell short of its looks. The sorbet was too hard and icy, and the coconut sago parfait was just alright. The semifreddo had good texture and flavour though.

interior

The interior design at Coast by Kayra is one of the most thought out and well-executed concepts I’ve seen. The entryway and restaurant facade is open and inviting, with full-length windows bringing in natural sunlight from The Starhill’s centre court. Selection of decor and furnishings is also deliberate, with each piece being a symbol of the restaurant’s philosophy, putting Kerala and its abundance of seaside spectacles in the spotlight.

The restaurant space features beautiful private rooms seating groups of six, up to large gatherings of 16 guests. One of the most striking art pieces was the four-piece curved painting in the smaller private room. Lining another wall on the other side of the restaurant, Chef Sabeel flexes his photography skills with inspiration from his global travels. Personally, I can see myself hosting lunch meetings or dinner parties over good food at Coast. The gracious hospitality by the front-of-house team is just the cherry on top of a very impressive sundae.

Coast offers a compelling dining experience even during lunch. I think it is a perfect place for business lunches and meetings when you need to impress a client, or your loved ones. The impeccable execution of every dish, great service and hospitality, and a cohesive ambience come together to offer good value for money in a luxurious experience. I look forward to future visits, perhaps a dinner experience next.

Coast by Kayra (pork-free)
Lot G03-G05,
Ground Floor, The Starhill,
181, Jalan Bukit Bintang,
Bukit Bintang
55100 Kuala Lumpur

Operation Hours: 11.30 AM–11.00 PM daily
T: +6017-215 7264
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Reserve here or here for KL Restaurant Week